The beauty industry is experiencing a shake-up this week after the European Union officially banned a chemical that has long been a staple in gel nail polish. The decision has sparked debate across the Atlantic, leaving American consumers wondering why the same restrictions don’t apply in the United States.
As of September 1, the EU has prohibited trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), a chemical commonly found in gel polishes that helps the product harden under UV or LED lamps. While praised for giving nails a glossy, chip-resistant finish, TPO has been linked to health risks that regulators in Europe say are too serious to ignore.
Why the EU Took Action
The move comes after years of scientific scrutiny. TPO is now classified under CMR Category 1B, meaning it is considered carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic to reproduction. In other words, it’s flagged as a potential cause of cancer and reproductive harm. This classification made its use in cosmetics unacceptable under EU law.
Dermatologists point out that the decision is more precautionary than reactionary. “The European Union is banning it out of caution,” dermatologist Dr. Hannah Kopelman explained. “Even though we don’t yet have large-scale human studies proving harm, the potential risks were enough to warrant stricter regulation.”
Under the EU’s 7th CMR Omnibus Regulation, products containing TPO must be completely removed from shelves. There are no grace periods, no sell-through extensions, and no exceptions. Salons and distributors have been told to immediately stop using products with TPO and properly dispose of their inventory.
The Industry Response
The ban has hit some businesses hard, particularly smaller salons that suddenly find themselves scrambling to replace popular products. Importers have also expressed frustration, with some saying they only learned of the final ruling weeks before it took effect.
Still, some brands saw this coming and prepared in advance. For example, Korean company Pretty Yeppuda launched a “transition support” campaign, offering steep discounts on older stock while pushing out TPO-free lines. Other brands, like Manicurist and Aprés Nail, have started rebranding their products specifically as “TPO-free,” a label that has quickly become a marketing advantage.
Meanwhile, in the United States
Despite these concerns, TPO remains completely unregulated in the U.S. Millions of American consumers continue to use gel polishes with TPO, often unaware of the potential risks. Unlike Europe, the U.S. operates under a different regulatory philosophy: chemicals are generally allowed until definitive proof of harm is presented.
This difference highlights a bigger divide. The EU bans over 1,300 substances in cosmetics, while the U.S. has outlawed fewer than 20. That gap underscores how differently the two regions approach consumer protection. Europe tends to act on the precautionary principle—if there’s a reasonable concern, regulators intervene. In the U.S., authorities often wait until harm is proven beyond doubt.
Health Risks Beyond TPO
Even if TPO disappears from gel nail products, health experts remind us that gel manicures still carry risks. One of the most concerning issues involves the UV-A lamps used to cure the polish. These lamps emit concentrated light that penetrates the skin and can damage DNA over time. A 2023 study suggested that repeated exposure, especially without protective gloves, may increase the risk of premature skin aging and even cancer-causing mutations.
Gel nails have also been tied to bacterial infections, most notably Pseudomonas aeruginosa—nicknamed “greenies” in the beauty world. This occurs when gel begins to lift from the natural nail, creating a damp environment where bacteria can thrive.
Interestingly, TPO itself isn’t disappearing from every application. The chemical is still allowed in dental materials, such as fillings, since the ban applies only to cosmetics. That detail has fueled even more debate, with some questioning why it’s deemed unsafe for nails but acceptable in dentistry.
The Bigger Picture
This controversy reflects a broader cultural divide over safety standards. For many Europeans, tighter restrictions are seen as a responsible way to protect consumers before harm occurs. For Americans, the absence of a ban feels like freedom of choice—though critics argue it leaves consumers exposed to unnecessary risks.
The debate even extends beyond cosmetics. Food products are often formulated differently depending on the market. For example, Heinz ketchup in the U.S. contains corn syrup and high-fructose corn syrup, while the UK version uses sugar instead. These differences highlight how regional regulations shape what people consume every day.
For now, American nail enthusiasts still have access to TPO-based products, though some brands are voluntarily moving toward TPO-free alternatives. Whether the U.S. will eventually follow Europe’s lead remains to be seen. In the meantime, consumers are left to weigh glossy nails against possible health risks—and decide if beauty is truly worth the gamble.
